Step 1a: Weeds
Spray any existing weeds or lawn with round up 14 days prior to laying your new Lawn. If an area is clean of weeds or lawn you will not need to spray the area.
Fig 1a: Spraying the area to be turfed.
Fig 1b: 14 days from treatment
Step 1b: Weeds cont’d
If you do not want to spray the area you can scrape the existing lawn and weeds. When scraping the soil away you’ll need to remove 25mm-50mm or topsoil
Step 2: Soften Soil
If the ground is compacted you will need to use a rotary hoe to turn and soften the existing soil. If you do not want to use a rotary hoe you can top dress the area with 50mm turf underlay.
Step 3: Pathways & Driveways
Scrape along the pathway or driveway 25mm deeper than the path/driveway, choose a point 1metre from your path/driveway towards the centre of the area and gradually blend the fall towards the path/driveway.
Fig 3: Dropping levels near pathways.
Step 4: Top Soil
If you need top soil you will need to drop the depth further to allow for the soil. Your soil type will determine the amount of top soil required. Hard clay soils will require 50mm extra for top soil, or Gypsum applied to the area. For standard soils allow 25mm extra for top soil.
Fig 4: Levelling your soil
Step 5: Soil
The soil mix that we recommend is a 50/50 sand to soil mix. This will allow the best combination of drainage and water retention to give your lawn the best foundation to grow from.
Working out How much soil you need
1m3 will cover an of 40 square metres 25mm thick, for example:
If you want to add more than 25mm underlay, then see this table below:
|25mm||You need 2.5m3 Turf Underlay|
|50mm||You need 5m3 Turf Underlay|
|75mm||You need 7.5m3 Turf Underlay|
|100mm||You need 10m3 Turf Underlay|
Step 6: Spread Soil
Spread your top soil over the prepared area and level out evenly using a rake or a lawn leveller as in diagram 6, follow your contours and level out the area as smooth as you can for best results.
Fig 6: Using the lawn leveller
Step 7: Fertiliser
Most turf underlays have fertiliser mixed through them; if it’s not at the recommended rate apply the Fertiliser over the prepared area. Sprinkle evenly, do not be too heavy handed as it can burn the roots of your new Lawn, we recommend you ask for the turf underlay with fertiliser to prevent this.
Step 8: Laying Lawn
You are ready to order and lay your new lawn, start laying from the furthest corner and work your way back, this way you are not working over the newly laid Lawn.
Fig 8a: Rolling the lawn
Fig 8b: Trimming the lawn to match
Fig 8c: Rolling the lawn
Place the roll down and roll out in a straight line, continue this right though making sure each roll laid out are placed together leaving no gaps, do not overlap the lawn, or it will suffocate and die.
Step 9: Watering
Water the lawn within 1hour from laying for approximately 20min. The best way to determine if you have watered your lawn enough is to lift a corner of the lawn and place your finger into the soil. Make sure the water has penetrated through the turf roll and 25mm into the soil.
Water every day for the first 3-5 days then every second day. In the cooler months you will only need to water everyday for the first 2-3 days Use the guide of testing the soil before watering to prevent overwatering.
Watering will vary during different seasons; ask us at time of laying what is best for your lawn.
Fig 9: Watering your lawn